Made a little playlist containing only live-recordings (recording on multitrack – mixed afterwards at home). Just to give you an impression of the recording quality that’s possible with this kind of approach. Have a listen!
Lovely piece of kit. Sounds the money. Highly recommended, from the Don Classics.
Ain’t she a beaut? More complex build than off-the-shelf kits though, still very doable, just lots of components.
Really proud of these recent additions to my online portfolio. Have a listen!
- No new DIY builds so far. It does take quite some time and funds, and that’s pretty much what I didn’t have at my disposal the last few months.
- Lots of Psychonaut live mixing in venues large and small all over the country. Lots of fun!
- A visual selection of recent work where I provided the audio:
Louie – Seriously (mix)
Murphy Munro (rec+mix)
Made a few live recordings this summer that turned out great:
The Dead Beat Society – These indie youngsters from Mechelen recorded their very first EP at Moonbeat, I think the mix suits their style very much despite the fact that everything was recorded live.
Denis Clement Quintet – this Ghent-based jazz quintet wanted to record a new demo in the pianist’s living room. A sweaty day, but the sweat paid off well.
Next in my modest assembly line: a 500 series Studer 169 EQ, created by GroupDIY member audiox. Got the idea from browsing the GroupDIY forum and decided to do the full-on mojo build with Discrete Opamps and Transformer balanced input.
This is what the finished pair looks like:
Since the frontpanel had an extra hole provisioned for an LED I had to swap the DPDT switch on the build plans with a 3DPT switch. The LED takes voltage from the nearest 16+ rail point i could “hook” into and returns to an unused solder pad nearby that returns to ground.
Although the potmeters provide a means to attach a frontpanel to the PCB I decided to go for something a little more sturdy and mounted the PCB on L-brackets.
First mounting of the front panel. The switch I used first didn’t really fit the frontpanel’s hole, so a little rework needed to be done.
My initial, unmodified build:
List of materials/sources:
- PCB’s from PCBGrinder
- Components from Mouser, there’s a premade Bill of Materials somewhere in the GroupDIY thread
- Generic premade frontpanel from Frontpanels.de
- L-brackets from silent:arts (can also be ordered from ClassicAPI in the US)
- Dual gang Omeg potmeters from Audio Maintenance (though Conrad carries these as well apparently), as specified in the GroupDIY thread
- gar2520 opamp from Classic API for the mid band
- opamp from Vintage Audio Projects for the hi/lo shelves (no site available yet..)
- replaced the DPDT switch on the PCB with a 3PDT toggle switch from musikding.de, where i got some mounting materials from as well
I love the sound of the hi/lo shelf on these!
This is a build I’ve been wanting to do for a long time. I just love SSL buscompressors and SSL’s in general, so being able to build one myself intrigued me big time. After reading through a post on Homerecording.be I bit the bullet and ordered the GSSL kit from PCBGrinder. The kit’s page has both an assembly & wiring guide on it, if you’re as inexperienced as me that’s a great help.
On top of the kit itself I ordered a case and a ready-made frontpanel from Frontpanels.de and the turbo mod. The latter makes the GSSL behave more like a real SSL buscompressor in which each channel has its own sidechain circuit.
I’ve been working on this build for several months (I think I first started in February) and had to tackle a few obstacles, which I’ll describe here, it might help out someone.
So, here goes the list of things that caused me to work longer on the GSSL than expected:
- Life in general 🙂
- The standard GSSL itself worked virtually right away. Make sure this is working properly before starting mods.
- Don’t forget bridge all the “white lines” on the PCB with trimmed leads.
- Distorted sound at some ratio’s: this was a problem with the Lorlin switches. Make sure the stop-pins are in the right pinhole!
- Bad soldering, especially after bolting on the turbo mod. Reflow or resolder if a continuity test using your DMM fails or sounds rather funky.
- Because my frontpanel allowed for a sidechain HPF filter, I wanted the compressor to retain this functionality, even after adding the turbo mod (it might have some use for bass-heavy material). So, I needed to replace the kit’s SPST switch with a DPDT switch and an extra cap. I went with the same value as suggested in PCBGrinder’s assembly manual: 100nF, which makes for a 160 hz high-passfilter. Explained more eloquently over at this GroupDIY post.
- Although the case and frontpanel are of of excellent quality, the frontpanel’s not secured in the middle and will bend a bit. Solved that by glueing some extra metal profiles to the frontpanel’s backside and tightening them on the bottom plate with screws.
- Changed standard LED with a blue one. No rocket science there, but it sure looks pimped-out. The VU meter’s red leg gets a cool glow-in-the-dark kind of feel when the LED’s on in the dark.
- It took me ages to realize that for turbo mod installation the 100R resistor did not need to be lifted, only the 47K resistor. No wonder my sidechain HPF didn’t work and the readings were way off.
- Level drop of +-6dB on one of the sides where it worked before: after taking out and working on the PCB, reseat the IC’s properly
- Screwed up a solder pad on the turbo board: curse yourself and your friggin’ hobbies and recreate the traces to the component’s leg in the broken pad with small pieces of wire.
List of materials/sources:
Mixed the Big Band Lier a few weeks ago. The band were so kind to supply an X32 desk so I thought I’d record the show and mix it afterwards. The venue was extremely reverberant but it worked out quite well in the end! I think I’ve also been able to capture the dynamics of a big band in the recording. Anyway, here’s a snippet of their rendition of “Big Spender”.
Disclaimer again: I'm far from an electronics expert, merely an enthusiast starting out with DIY audio. I'm learning along the way and want to share my findings with other enthusiasts.
Okay, now that I succesfully finished an easier project and a GSSL – I will write about later on – I feel confident enough in my building skills to undertake one of the builds I’d been wanting to do since I considered picking up the soldering iron: the Classic API VP 28.
The available online resources, such as the extremely convenient Chunger’s Photo Build Guide on GroupDIY make building this preamp a joy. I did not experience building problems and the circuit worked right away.
The only problem I had was that the hex key sizes used on the knobs are not a size commonly used here in Europe. Seeing myself building more CAPI kits in the distant future, I ordered this hex key set from Mouser that did the job perfectly.
All geeky talk aside: when in actual use – talking about actual music recording for a change 😉 – it sounds every bit as great as it looks! I’m looking forward to try it out on as many sources as possible.